We'll build you a set in which every club earns its keep.

My prices compare favorably with the prices of off-the-shelf clubs of equivalent quality... mine just fit you and your swing better. Economy and starter sets can be as low as $300. A complete set of 14 lifetime clubs, custom fit to you, your swing, and your game, and custom built, will cost $450-$900, unless you want some really fancy stuff.   

I do not make super-cheap clubs, and if price is your sole concern, you may be better off at Wal-Mart. You can buy a few sets in the Internet , including the bag, for as low as $139.99.  Don't buy it!  That $140 set is made so cheaply it isn't even safe!   The cheap Internet brand you buy will be out of business and re-incorporated under a new name in two months, when you bring your clubs to me for repair. 

If cheap is what you need, go to Wal-Mart or Sears, and expect to pay $250 for a low-end but adequate set. Best way to tell if its adequate...  twist the shafts firmly, and insist on less than 6 degrees of torque.  If you buy any "full" 14-club set sold for under $300, ($350 if it includes a bag), insist on steel shafts... so-called "graphite" shafts on low-priced ready-made sets will be of unacceptably low quality even for the most casual of golfers (but okay for kids under 12, or grandmothers)

Set Makeup-
The first step is to decide what clubs you want to carry in the first place.  You need a driving club, some fairway clubs, some trouble and touch clubs, and something to putt with. A "standard" matched set of 3 woods, 8 irons, 2 wedges, and a putter may not be (no, it probably is not) right for you, your swing, or your playing style. A short history of set-makeup.

You will need a club for driving, but not necessarily a #1 wood, and in some cases, not even a wood at all. Your driving club should be the club that you can hit to within 20 yards left or right of a target line 75% of the time... regardless of how far it goes. Beginning golfers should NOT use a #1 wood for driving.  A golfer with a handicap over 15 will usually score better if he/she drives with a 3-wood, and so will some 10 handicappers.

Because it hits off a tee, a driver can be different from your fairway woods, and should be, to give you the maximum distance your swing is capable of producing with acceptable accuracy.  

Fairway Woods-
The first fairway wood should be built for maximum distance, like your driver, keeping in mind the accuracy standard above..  But not everyone can get a 12 to 14 degree 3 wood up in the air off the fairway, so it is not always the best choice.  Mid- to high-handicappers will be better off with a 5-wood off the fairway, and in some cases, even a 7-iron.

All your other woods, if any, should be built for maximum accuracy and consistent distance rather than maximum distance, because you usually hit them to a specific target, like the green.  Woods numbered up to 15 are available in the custom market, and if the higher lofts work for you, I can make you some.

Average golfers should not carry the low-numbered irons; they are too hard to hit. Most golfers should not carry the 3 or 4 irons, and a few should not carry the 5 either..

Your irons should produce a consistent distance gap between clubs, typically 10 yards, but I can adjust that gap to to suit your game.  

The pitching wedge that came with your off-the-shelf set is really just a "10-iron", and if your set has a an "AW" or GW", it is in most cases an 11-iron.  In most cases, you should carry both of them, but they are fairway clubs.  Real wedges are "touch" and "trouble" clubs, used differently than fairway irons; and should be designed differently.  Sand wedges that cosmetically match your fairway irons make sense for the retailer, but not for you. 

In a trouble wedge, the vertical balance point is more important that lateral balance, and the way the sole of the club contacts the ground is critical. All golfers should carry a high-bounce sand wedge, and most should carry an additional heavy trouble wedge with less bounce than the sand wedge

Wedges are available in loft ranges between 46 and 65 degrees, with a variety of bounce angles and other critical specs, so we can build a set just right for you. 

Despite the $100 price tag you see on many putters in the retail shops, they are not complicated or expensive to make. I have never sold a putter for over $80, and can easily make you a quality putter that fits perfectly, for $30. There are many stories of golfers improving their putting temporarily by simply switching putters, so I recommend that you own several putters of different styles, and change between them fairly often.

Set Make-up -Revisited-
So let's take a stab at what a typical golfer's set should be. 

For beginning golfers, a good start would be 3-wood and 7-wood with  6 and 8 irons and a pitching wedge, plus a real sand wedge and a putter.  That's all they need.

Let's assume a 20 handicapper, who plays regularly and is of average (5'10") height.  Let's start with a 13-degree 3-wood "driver" built 42.5 inches long (15 / 41.5 for 5'6" women) and a 5 wood, and 7 wood. This golfer has  a choice between a 5-iron or a 9-wood, and it depends on the golfer's preference. Then for irons; 6, 7, 8, 9, and PW, and if available in his set line, a 51- or 52-degree AW.  Add a 52 degree trouble wedge and a real purpose-built 56-degree high-bounce sand wedge.  Add a putter and we have only 13 clubs, so we have the option of adding a special-purpose club.

 A 9-wood is a great tool for slower swingers, hitting about as long as a 5-iron, but flying higher and landing softer. A "hybrid" 4-iron works very well for some golfers, with results similar to a 9-wood.  An interesting option for people who practice a lot is a 60-degree low-bounce "loft" wedge... but you gotta practice with it before you take it n the course.  A 3-iron can be effective if used only for teeing off on narrow fairways, but you should leave it in the car when the course is more open.

OR, let's have a look at a hypothetical 10-handicap.  He/she may or may not hit a driver better than a 3-wood, so that's an individual choice at this level. If they do carry a driver, though, they should allow their clubmaker to spend the extra time to make it fit them perfectly. A 10-handicapper can probably hit a 3-wood effectively off the fairway, so they'll want one, unless their golf course is very short or they drive prodigiously long  They'll certainly want a 5-wood, however. If they do not carry a driver, they would probably want a 7-wood.  

For the irons, they should consider paying the extra money for premium forged clubs.  Stick with perimeter-weighted irons, but if they are improving consistently, they could consider forged blades. They should own a 3-iron, but only carry it when the course has narrow fairways or exacting tee shot requirements... it will not be a good fairway club for them.  In most cases they will carry a 4-iron, and certainly a 5-9 set, and likely the PW and AW from from the same set.  Absolutely they will want a great sand wedge, but their other trouble wedge(s) is going to be chosen not for technical characteristics, but because they like the way it looks and feels. They should own several putters that they have confidence in.... "Having confidence in it" is the most important technical characteristic of a putter.